Contemporary to Elizabethan [2]

Sam McKnight for 'Vogue' 

I emphasized elements within this image using the shapes already formed within the composition i decided to take a hair design of which had inspired me when researching hair looks which describe our quote, the layered plaits i found reminded me of the layered feel the the Elizabethans would create within there hair 'wreaths'. I further developed with the hair emerging from the hat, the idea being that the hair would be crimped and waved curling around the front of this colorful plaited structure. i wanted to add embellishments to the deign painting a leaf i found and adding diamonds adds a femininity to the design yet contrasted against the large over powering structure.  

Contemporary to Elizabethan [1]

Initial Design 

Inspirational image 

I chose this hair image by Sam McKnight as it reminded me of the scene in 'Elizabeth' (shown in the image above) when Queen Elizabeth is preparing for battle her is loose and free which is rarely seen. I took the idea of amour from this scene using plaited wires i created this design contrasting with the flowing hair in this crown like structure i feel the look portrays power yet in a feminine way. I started with this 3D structure to visualize how this would look as a hair design while creating i was thinking about ways i could interpret hair within the design so then i moved into 2D as shown in the image below. I then took a photograph of my wire design and drew over the top. The idea being that the hair would wrap within the wire structure and smaller wire like pin curls at the base of the head. I then further added diamonds and embellishment to add a richer texture an element i feel emphasizes the crown like structure. 

middle process 

wire structure and wire pin curls 

Final Design 

Final Design 

In-Class Formative feedback 21/10/13

Experimenting with Ribbon, Plaits & Twists

In class we experimented using ribbon within the hair instead of pins, hair bands and clips as in the Elizabethan era they would not of had  the hair pieces we have today. We began by tieing the ribbon into a section of the hair and either french plaiting the hair incorporating the ribbon or using twists. Once we had created our look we had to either tie of the ribbon or intertwine the ribbon into the plait to secure the structure. I really enjoyed this workshop as it allowed me to think of new ways of creating a structure with the hair using more available materials. I began thinking about incorporating other materials such as wire or lace to create a structure that would stay or creating a pattern within the hair using materials or even an object such a a chain to create an amour like feel. 

Below are some initial images i have collected exploring the amour like style incorporated within hair, i would like to explore this idea further within my own work. 

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/415175659368048440/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/572097958885101669/

Buns & Plaits Technical Lesson

Buns: 

Step 1;  Pull the section of the hair you want to create into a bun up into a pony tail brushing with paddle brush to create a soft finish used a tick hair band to secure. If hair is really thick section the hair in half and pony tail each section individually pulling the hair from the bottom to join the first section.  

Step 2; Taking even sections from around the pony tail clip hair using hair grips, folding the hair over to the correct size and shape you would like you bun to sit in. If hair is thick use your finger to fold over the hair twisting around inside the bun structure and clip, using this process repeat to form the whole bun shape.

Step 3; Using the bun pins to finish manipulate and pull around the sections to close up the gap and pin into the center of the bun. 

French Plait: 

Step 1; section the hair you wish to plait creating clean lines as this will make sure it’s easier and creating an even plait the whole way down. Section this into 3 even sections each the same width.

Step 2; Plait into middle section, after two plaiting motions take hair from alternating sides and plait into the middle section making sure you pull tight at each point.

Step 3; once there’s no hair left to introduce plait as normal down and tie off with a clear small band.

Fish Tale Plait: 

Step 1; Section the Hair into 2 sections making sure both even.

Step 2; Taking a small amount of hair from slightly behind each section cross over to join the other section, alternating from each side making sure you don’t pull very tight as this will limit what you can do with the plait afterwards.
Step 3; when there’s no more hair left, if you wish to create a messier look push the whole plait upwards before tying to loosen the grip of the plait and tie off with a clear small band. 

Elizabethan Inspired

This is the perfect con-temporizing of the Elizabethan look taking element from Queen Elizabeth's presents of power and determination and Beyonce bringing attitude and glamour. 

'Wild' turned Elizabethan

As the Hair was long and in a cape like style much opposite to the Elizabethan eras receding hair lines and precise up do's i created a style that already worked with what i had as you can see with the long curls down the body, i created the cuff around the neck to create more of a division, and used the cape like hair almost like a dress. I created a structure on the head using string which i painted white adding smaller parts of string to create a covered texture over the top of the drawn curls, i further added diamonds one of my favorite elements of the Elizabethan hair styles all the embellishment they used to incorporated into their hair. 

Introduction

My initial thoughts and feelings about our first project 'The New Elizabethan' was general excitement in learning history from another era and how they developed and found their skills furthermore what influenced their fashion trends and why. Also how theses are seen even today society when anything really goes within fashion. When i first thought how to contemporise the Elizabethans i remembered back to reading my ELLE 'Collections autumn/ winter' in the summer and remembered the Dolce & Gabbana show this instantly reminded me of the Elizabethan portraits, the thick heavy embellishments and rich textures and colors, this regal look  showing the popularity of a historical style within high fashion in 2013. I am exited to learn and develop my skills in contemporary and historical techniques to help me create a look and style influenced and capturing the Elizabethan era using my background reading and research to aid me in developing my own take and a modern version, which has not yet been visualized using already existing inspirations of for example Dolce & Gabbana's ways of con-temporizing a past historical style all as knowledge for me to create and hair, makeup and styling look which is a new and exiting take on a style created over 300 years ago.

Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2013 

Curled, Frizzled and Wreathed

my hair design on paper using found materials

Using my images of witch i found to best describe my quote by Philip Stubes i created this hair design Elizabethan inspired i took the visual movement from the words and images i found and applied them to this structure. I wanted the layered effect as i felt this is a visual reference for Wreathed the layers in a halo shape building up from the hair line. The blonde hair emerging from the structure i wanted to look out of control witch i couldn't particularly achieve with what we had hair spray and a comb would have worked in making the hair out of control something i relate to the word Frizzled, this contrasting to the rest of the clean look. The embellishment of the design was inspired by a hair look i collected when looking at plaits and buns if i did this again i would use more elaborate and dramatic objects.
My partner created a look very different to mine but i think this was based in the fact she couldn't get the hair to stay into the curls, although hers looked different it inspired me i could create a look based on this structure but more current loose out of control curls, the image below i have sketched out my initial ideas on development of her design and an image of the basis of texture i would be looking to create with some more precise curls within the structure.

Left; my initial planing of my ideas of the piece i created above
Right; my initial ideas based on the design my partner had created 

                          

Inspirational Image of the texture of the design i created above on right.
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/514043744938433674/

Plaits & Buns

Elizabethan style plait and up do 

Plaits i would like to try and learn how to do. 

This design reminded me of the Elizabethan style,
 the elaborate embellishment within the hair. 

Blow drying

Equipment:

Hair dryer

Large tooth comb 

Round large brush 

Clips 

Product 

Shampoo/Conditioner/towels 

Cape 

Step 1: Consultation look at the hair in its natural condition, look if its thick or thin, colored or not this will have an effect on the temperature you will use on the model, chemically damaged hair will dry quicker so will need a lower heat.

Step 2: Wash as shown before, comb hair with wide tooth comb when back at the chair, to find parting brush hair backwards and push up the hair should fall into the natural parting, ask the model if they prefer another parting and change as according at this point.

Step 3: Blast hair to get the majority of the water out, want hair to still be slightly damp this means you’re not spending ages blow drying the hair and will achieve a better shape, When hair is damp add products according to the initial consultation, if applied on wet hair this will dilute the product used.

Step 4: Section hair from behind the ears and move these front sections forwards, Section the back section into thin layers starting from the bottom, as it will be easier to manage less hair.

Step 5: Take section and starting at the rout life up with the brush and in the opposite direction that the hair sits use hair dryer to blow dry, use the hair dryer to cushion the hair to move brush back under and blow dry the root from the top, making sure the hair dryer is constantly moving as not to cause scalp burn. Make sure roots are fully dry before moving onto mid and end section, if not the hair will sag due to, to much water still sitting in the hair.

Step 6: Slightly tugging on the hair with the brush to tease the hair to gain more volume pull the brush towards yourself following with the hair dryer in the direction you want the hair to dry, twisting brush coming down towards the ends.

I found the technique difficult to get hold of but once i managed to get the movement right I found I was starting to get a good style I managed to get the hair straight and with slight movement although next time want to concentrate more on getting a better volume from the route possibly by adding more product at the root as the hair was thin and dry. 

After my blow dry. 

Hair Washing

Equipment:
Cape
Towels
Afro comb
Large tooth comb
Shampoo/Conditioner
Hair dryer

    
     Step 1: Consultation

Check the hair in its natural state you will then be able to tell the condition of the hair: if it’s badly damaged use lower heat, Colored hair breaks easily and can make hair greasier at the roots. Check scalp for dandruff, alopecia and head lice often found at bottom of neck and behind the ears. Ask if they are on any medication if they have any allergies, if their on medication this can sometimes make the hair greasier or dryer. 

Step 2: Take all hair away from head put towel around the neck and lower head into the basin, check the temperature of the water into the wrist to make sure it’s not too hot hands can’t always tell heat well if using allot of heat appliances.

Step 3: Have a towel on the side to dry hands; cup the hands around the front of the head to wet all of the hair, taking care not to splash water onto the models face.

Step 4: Smooth shampoo over the top of the hair and work your way down, use the tips of the fingers to rub and foam shampoo into the hair, use a rougher motion when shampooing if doesn't foam try adding more water. Thicker longer hair more shampoo. Rise and do again, Shampoo twice allows for hair to be completely clean.

Step 5: Smooth Conditioner mid length to ends, massage into scalp. Use comb to brush the hair in sections, with a product in the hair means knots are more easily removed; less brushing is required after the hair has been washed. Rinse all conditioner out of the hair.

Step 6: Get model to sit up place the towel around the head and squeeze hair within the towel, never rub as this causes the hair to break and knot.

Step 7: Use wide tooth comb and brush hair, never use a hair brush as the comb is softer on the hair won’t break it when the hair is in a vulnerable state after washing.

Step 8: Make sure the nozzle is on the end of the hair dryer so you can direct the air flow, dry from the roots first always moving the hair with fingers making sure that the end of the hair dryer is always pointing away from the head as not to catch the hair in the end. Cold air will then set the position of the hair. 

'... Curled frizzled & crisped laid out on wreaths & borders...'

The images above in order down are images i have used to describe Curled, Frizzled, Crisped and Wreaths. The movement of the image particularly in the second and third describe the imagery of the words the sounds coming to mind such as the word crisped, the bent pages of the book create this imagery within the texture of the sound of the word. The last image of the Wreath reminds me of the embellished hair designs that were often creating in the Elizabethan era. 

I have also collect images of modern hair i feel describes these words again in order downward; Curled, Frizzled, Crisped and Borders. The modern images show with rich texture visual descriptions of the words. The last image i feel is a modern interpretation of borders, the hair almost creating a frame (border) around the mans face also creating a crisp sharp look.  

Illamasqua Distinction in Makeup Artistry

Marie Murphy- Non Professional

The hair styling above was inspired by the Elizabethan era, showing an example of how to develop an Elizabethan style into a more contemporary look. Marie had mainly used techniques such as changing the color and adding different textures such a plastic wires to create a futuristic look complementing her makeup design.

Elizabethan Hair

"Then followeth the trimming and tricking of their heds in laying out their hair to the show, which of force must be curled, frizzled and crisped, laid out on wreathes & borders from one eare to an other. And lest it should fall down, it is under propped with forks, wyres, & I can not tel what, rather like grim stern monsters, than chaste christian matrones."

Around the Elizabethan era the well educated Philip Stubbes distributed pamphlets to the public on his views often criticizing current fashions,these pamphlets now hold a large incite into how the people of the Elizabethan era presented themselves.This quote holds a lot of imagery 'propped with forks, wires' that could be interesting to use literally when designing an Elizabethan hair look furthermore exploring the exaggeration used within the text to create an elaborate hair style. 

'Smart & Wild'

Trendland (2013) Undercover S/S 2014 [Online]
Available from; http://trendland.com/undercover-ss-14/
[Accessed: 01 Oct 2013] 

This hair styling i feel represents the word 'Smart' through the clean geometric lines within this bob cut i feel the sleekness creates a finished and precise look something i relate to the imagery of the word 'Smart'.

Sam McKnight (2012) Vogue December [ Online]
Available from;http://www.sammcknight.com/portfolio/
 [Accessed: 01 Oct 2013]

This image i have chosen to represent hair styling within the description of 'Wild', the un-tamed messiness of the hair exaggerated using hair pieces down the body in a cape like fashion create a animalistic feel along with the variations of color allow the hair styling to create a surrealist element that's fun and care free.